Letter from Winemaker Milla Handley
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Milla Handley
photo by Jamey Thomas
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Each fall when I write my letter for this shipment, I reflect on the year so far and try to anticipate the harvest. I usually focus on the previous vintage we’ve just finished bottling and my predictions for the upcoming vintage. This year has brought many changes. The biggest change to me personally was the recent death of my father on June 14th. He was not only my father but also my partner in the winery. He gave me the confidence and support to start Handley Cellars in the basement of my home in 1982. From then on, he encouraged me to grow and build the winery we have today. Every day I come to work I think about the incredible opportunity he gave me. So, this year as I write to Handley’s Cellar Club members, whom my father called our “ambassadors,” I’m feeling more reflective than usual.
When I started making wine, my philosophy was to let the grape express itself. Now my philosophy is to keep the vineyard, vintage, and variety central, while using the winemaking process, not to dominate, but to guide and enhance the finished wine. Knowing when and how to intercede and when to back off and let the personality of the vintage express itself is the challenge. Finding this balance is my goal each year, so that all our wines will have a similar “Handley” style, but also reflect the vintage differences. In cool years the wines may be leaner and lighter in weight, while in warmer years they may be rounder and richer.
After 2008, which was a difficult vintage, I’m excited about 2009. I’m fairly superstitious and don’t want to temp fate, but the vines seem to be healthy and the crop levels look good. Spring was mild with few frosty mornings. Our 1st hot spell occurred May 16th, the weekend of the Anderson Valley Winegrowers’ Pinot Noir Festival. Summer has been quite mild with few hot spells since then. Although rains during the winter were far below average, late May rains replenished our pond and the soil. We did not need to water the vineyard until August. Perfect growing conditions. As I write this, harvest is still many weeks away, so we’ll see what the fall brings.
The wines in your Fall 2009 shipment span three vintages. Along with the newly-released 2007 Estate Chardonnay and Ranch House Red, we are introducing the 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Dry Creek Valley. And from 2006, two very special wines: The Holmes Ranch Pinot Noir (see my notes about this special blend on the next page), and the Brut Rose, last produced in 2003. I hope you enjoy them all.
Milla
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